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Further Exploring around the Harbour In the Dartmouth area
Dartmouth is home to the Bedford Institute of Oceanography (BIO), one of the most respected ocean research establishments in the world. Located at the base of the MacKay Bridge, the BIO is actively engaged in a wide range of projects in fisheries sciences, oceanography and hydrography. Another of Dartmouth's popular attractions is the Black Cultural Centre of Nova Scotia on Main Street (in the community of Westphal, Rte. 7), which testifies to the long history of the African-Canadian experience in Nova Scotia. The museum preserves the rich heritage of these and other black achievements and contributions worldwide.
At the Cole Harbour Heritage Farm Museum, located in the community of Cole Harbour (Portland Street, Rte. 207), the barns and livestock, farmhouses and tearoom form an island from a bygone era. The site adjoins a natural marsh and woodland walk.
A loop through Eastern Passage and Cow Bay
Pleasant Street (Rte. 322) starts the Marine Drive and runs southeast from Dartmouth through the suburb of Woodside toward the mouth of the harbour. A passenger ferry service to Halifax operates from the Woodside Terminal during weekday rush hours.
Just beyond the refineries is the community of Eastern Passage where CFB Shearwater is located. The base is home to the Shearwater Aviation Museum.
Continuing through Eastern Passage you will reach Fisherman's Cove, a working fishing village that offers a variety of 'access to the ocean' activities, as well as craft shops, restaurants and a Visitor Information Centre. Eastern Passage overlooks the mouth of Halifax Harbour, McNabs Island and Lawlor's Island. It is also home port to a fleet of more than 20 fishing boats, only 20 minutes from downtown Halifax. A half-mile boardwalk takes you through the dunes and beside the ocean waters.
Shore Road goes right to Hartlen Point with a view of Devil's Island on the horizon. Dr. Helen Creighton, the celebrated folklorist, tells stories of mysterious happenings on this ominously-named island, once the seasonal home for several families of fishermen.
Back in Eastern Passage, take the Cow Bay Road east away from the outer harbour to Cow Bay. The community has several sites, including a hall built in 1888, where residents host Thursday afternoon teas in July and August. Further along Rte. 322 is the Cow Bay Moose and the turnoff for Rainbow Haven Provincial Beach, where beach volleyball is a favorite summer pastime. The park's dramatic setting at the mouth of Cole Harbour is part of the extensive saltwater marsh system of this area. Bissett Road, adjacent to the entrance to Rainbow Haven, will return you to Rte. 207 continuing east along the coastline.
Around the Basin
Following Rte. 7 north from Dartmouth, the road passes over steeply wooded Magazine Hill. This was a specially designed storage area for ammunition during the Second World War. So much explosive material was returned to the site at the close of the War that there was almost another disastrous Halifax Explosion. On July 28, 1945 an ammunition barge blew up at the munitions jetty. For 24 hours there were incredible fireworks, incessant rumblings and shudders, but thanks to the heroic efforts of firefighters, no repeat of 1917.
At the head of Halifax Harbour is one of Atlantic Canada's fastest growing communities - Bedford. It was under Cornwallis' orders in 1749 that Captain John Gorham built an outpost - Fort Sackville - overlooking the mouth of the Sackville River at the head of Bedford Basin. The remains of Fort Sackville are adjacent to the grounds of the Scott Manor House, (c. 1770) the only two-storey gambrel-roofed Colonial mansion in Canada.
The route from Halifax through Bedford along the shore of Bedford Basin (Rte. 2) was always a busy one, leading as it did to the other major settled areas of the province - Annapolis Valley and Truro and beyond. The town itself had become a popular summer retreat for the townspeople of Halifax by the 19th century, but none of the grand hotels of that period have survived. The waterfront is still a major attraction, with an active yacht club and the Lion's Park with playground and outdoor pool. Admiral DeWolf Park is a popular spot for an evening stroll along the water, while Admiral's Cove Park, at the south end of Shore Drive, is a natural retreat with woodland trails and steep cliffs overlooking the basin. Rock climbing is popular here on challenging Eagle's Rock.
Just a short drive along Hwy. 213 (Hammonds Plains Road) will bring you to the Lucasville Road and Atlantic Playland Park, featuring waterslides, go-carts, bumper cars, mini-golf, a canteen and more. (Hwy. 213 is also an alternate route to Hwy. 333 and Peggy's Cove.)
Following Hwy. 2 back toward downtown Halifax takes you past the mysterious and romantic Hemlock Ravine Park, the site of Halifax's most enduring love story. When Edward, the Duke of Kent, arrived in Halifax in 1794 to serve as commander in chief of the Halifax Garrison, he was accompanied by his French mistress, Julie St. Laurent. He built an elaborate estate for her here on the property of Governor John Wentworth, overlooking the shore of the Basin. The only one of the estate's buildings that remains, the tiny, elegant music rotunda, can be seen perched on a hill between the water and Bedford Highway. While this building is privately owned, Hemlock Ravine Park is open to the public. A delight to follow, the park's graceful pathways lead from Julie's heart-shaped pond through the towering old hemlock trees.
Past Kearney Lake Road as you enter the community of Rockingham, there is a small public parking lot with a look-off over the Basin. This is an excellent vantage point to admire the peaceful beauty of Bedford Basin sheltered by rolling hills.
Hwy. 2 returns to Halifax, past Mount Saint Vincent University, founded by the Sisters of Charity in 1873 to further the education of women. At one time it was the only independent women's university in the British Commonwealth.
The Sambro Loop
To follow the western shore of the harbour out toward the ocean take Purcell's Cove Road (Rte. 253) from the Armdale Rotary as it winds along the Northwest Arm. The Arm itself is home to two yacht clubs, including North America's oldest - the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron (1837). Between the yacht clubs lies Sir Sanford Fleming Park, named after one of Canada's great renaissance men. Fleming created Standard Time Zones, designed Canada's first postage stamp and was a chief surveyor for the Canadian Pacific Railway. He donated the park's 95 acres to the city in 1908, and its extensive waterfront and hillside trail system leads through four distinct natural habitats.
Rising above the park is The Dingle Tower (1912), built to commemorate 150 years of representative government in Nova Scotia. The 10-storey stone tower is open in summer and fall, and offers spectacular views of the Northwest Arm and surrounding area. A supervised salt-water beach and children's playground and canteen are other attractions here.
Just beyond picturesque Purcell's Cove is York Redoubt National Historic Site, built on the cliff top overlooking the approaches to the harbour. Recognizing its strategic location, the British first fortified this site in 1793. Today, visitors can enjoy both the historic site and magnificent harbour views.
At Herring Cove, Rte. 253 joins Rte. 349 and continues south through Portuguese Cove, Duncan's Cove, Ketch Harbour and Sambro, traditional fishing communities which today are also home to craftspeople and commuters. During the summer season you can take a boat tour of the Sambro Lighthouse, the oldest operating lighthouse in North America. Farther along Rte. 349 is Crystal Crescent Beach, one of the most popular sand beaches in the area for sunbathing, picnicking and beachcombing (unsupervised, no facilities). Hiking trails at the south end of the beach lead along the coastline to Pennant Point. Rte. 306 from Sambro completes the loop back toward the downtown.
This brings you back to Halifax and the close of your tour of the communities that share the harbour. Read on for suggestions for exploring beyond the central core of the Halifax Regional Municipality, or look elsewhere in this guide for details on the museums, historic sites and parks referred to above.
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